The 20 Cities That Make Algeria Africa’s Most Overlooked Travel Destination
America ı By Rochdi Rais
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Béjaïa today is a university town on the Gulf of Béjaïa, hemmed between the Kabyle mountains and the sea, with a distinctly Berber cultural identity and some of the most dramatic coastal scenery in North Africa. The star of the show is the Cap Carbon lighthouse in Gouraya National Park — a lighthouse on a sheer cliff dropping into the Mediterranean, the highest natural lighthouse cliff face in the world, reachable by a hiking trail through forest populated by Barbary macaques (a species of tailless monkey that will happily steal your lunch given the opportunity).
The mountain above the city, Yemma Gouraya, is topped by a sanctuary sacred to the Berber figure of the same name, and the views from the summit — city, bay, mountains, sea — are extraordinary. The beaches along the Gulf are genuinely beautiful, the Casbah retains traces of its Hammadid kingdom origins, and the evening café culture in the lower town is everything a Mediterranean evening should be.
13. Biskra — The Desert Begins Here
There is a precise moment, driving south from the Aurès mountains through their cedar-scented passes, when the landscape tips. The green hills become dust, the dust becomes sand, and suddenly you are at the edge of something enormous. That moment, that threshold, is Biskra.
The Romans knew this place. So did the Byzantines, the Zirids, the Ottomans. By the late 19th century, under French control, Biskra had become the most fashionable winter resort in North Africa — an oasis town of thermal baths, date-palm gardens and dramatic light that attracted writers and painters in quantities that a place of its modest size had no right to expect. André Gide wrote The Immoralist here. Oscar Wilde came to recuperate. Most famously, Henri Matisse spent two winters here and later said the light of Biskra had permanently changed how he used colour.
What draws you today is the same light, the same date-palm gardens — among the finest in the world, a forest of 100,000 palms in some estimates — the thermal waters of Hammam Salahine, and the knowledge that the Sahara, in all its immensity, begins just beyond the town’s last palm tree. Take a 4x4 into the dunes at sunrise, when the light is liquid and the sand turns the colour of saffron. Then come back to town for tea, sweet and black, under an awning in the market.
14. Sétif — The City That Kept Its Romans Close
Sétif is a busy modern city of nearly a million people, the economic capital of northeastern Algeria, and most travellers treat it primarily as a staging post for Djémila, 36 kilometres away. This is understandable but represents a missed opportunity. The Sétif Archaeological Museum holds one of the finest collections of Roman mosaics in the world — a staggering claim that turns out, on arrival, to be entirely justified. The centrepiece is the Triumph of Dionysus, a floor mosaic of cinematic scale and colour depicting the wine god in his chariot, surrounded by nymphs and tigers and grapes, alive with the joy of the feast. Nothing remotely like it exists outside a handful of the world’s great museums.
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