The 20 Cities That Make Algeria Africa’s Most Overlooked Travel Destination
America ı By Rochdi Rais
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Tizi Ouzou is Kabylie’s capital, a university city in a valley surrounded by the peaks of the Djurdjura mountains. The city itself is lively and modern, but the real reason to come is the landscape around it. Drive up into the Djurdjura range to the village of Aït Hichem or across to the ancient Berber village of Aït Benhaddou-like mountain settlements where houses of stone and ochre earth cling to ridgelines. The Gorges of Kerrata and the Gorges de la Chiffa nearby are stunning canyon landscapes. In spring, the mountain roads are lined with wild flowers; in summer, the Berber pottery and woven rugs sold at roadside markets are among the finest craft objects in the country.
17. Skikda — Ancient Rusicade, Industrial Secret
Skikda, known to the Romans as Rusicade, is an industrial port city that most travel writers skip and most travellers never hear about. This is, as with so much of Algeria, their loss. Skikda’s hinterland is one of the most spectacular on the entire Algerian coast: deep coral reefs off the Cap de Fer peninsula, beaches of startling quality at Collo and Stora (the ancient Punic port of Rusicade’s predecessor), and just inland, the cork-oak forests of the El Kala National Park, a biosphere reserve that runs to the Tunisian border and is one of the last great temperate forest wildernesses in North Africa.
The city itself has a Roman theatre, thermal baths and a compact but rewarding archaeological museum with finds from Rusicade and surrounding sites. The corniche promenade has the particular character of Algerian port-city evenings — families out at sunset, fishermen heading home, the smell of the sea mixing with coffee and bread from the market. For divers, the waters around Cap de Fer hold some of the Mediterranean’s clearest visibility and most undisturbed marine life.
18. Djanet — Gateway to the Stone Age
If Tassili n’Ajjer is the destination, Djanet is the door. This small Tuareg town in Algeria’s far southeast, near the borders of Libya and Niger, is where most Tassili expeditions begin and where, after days in the wilderness, you come back to eat a proper meal, sleep in a bed, and stare at the sky, which at this latitude and altitude is so crowded with stars it seems almost threatening.
Djanet itself is worth more than a transit night. The old ksar — a fortified Tuareg village of mud and palm-trunk construction — is a beautiful object, its organic forms almost indistinguishable from the rock escarpment behind it. The Tuareg market on Friday mornings is the real thing: indigo-turbaned men, silver jewellery, camel equipment, smoked meats, the desert’s compressed trading economy. The oasis palm gardens along the Oued Djanet river are a green shock after the stone desert. And the canyon landscape around Djanet — the Tadrart Rouge, a field of sculpted red sandstone arches and towers — is arguably even more photogenic than the Tassili plateau itself, a Martian geography of burnt orange and deep shadow that no photograph has yet managed to adequately convey.
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