The 20 Cities That Make Algeria Africa’s Most Overlooked Travel Destination
America ı By Rochdi Rais
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19. Mostaganem — The City That Time Left Gently
Mostaganem sits on a clifftop above the Mediterranean in western Algeria, a city of 200,000 that somehow retains the texture of a town. The old Derb quarter — the historic Arab city that predates the French period — is a labyrinth of white-washed alleys, wood-carved doorways and neighbourhood mosques still half-covered in original tilework. Unlike the better-known medinas of Tlemcen or Constantine, it is almost entirely unvisited by outsiders and entirely unhurried by their absence.
The cliff walks around Mostaganem offer some of the most vertiginous Mediterranean views in Algeria: white walls above blue water, fig trees growing from limestone cracks, the distant mountains of the Dahra range behind. The beaches at Salamandre and Stidia, just outside the city, are local summer institutions. The region produces serious wine — the hills of the Dahra and Mascara ranges to the south have been vineyards since Roman times and remain so, despite everything — and local cuisine makes exceptional use of fresh seafood and the fat olives of the interior.
The town’s relative obscurity means that the welcome here is genuine rather than rehearsed, the café culture is for locals rather than visitors, and you are more likely to be invited for tea by strangers than to be sold anything.
20. Jijel — The Green Coast
Algeria’s northeastern coastline between Béjaïa and Skikda is sometimes called the Corniche Jijelienne, and of all Algeria’s coastal provinces, Jijel’s is possibly the most scenically dramatic — a coast of limestone headlands, dark cedar forest dropping to turquoise coves, sea-cave grottos you reach by boat, and beaches that locals insist are among the finest in the Mediterranean, a claim that is difficult to argue with.
Jijel city itself is small and port-town functional, but the coast around it is the point. The Cavernes de Kef El Amar are stalactite caves near the coast accessible by a short hike. The beaches of Ziama Mansouriah and Kotama are long, clean and, in September, close to deserted. The cedar forests of the Biban mountains just inland are a hiking territory that has barely been mapped for tourism, with waterfalls, wild boar and the remnants of ancient Berber settlements half-hidden in the trees.
Jijel has also produced more than its share of Algeria’s literary and musical talent — it is a city that reads, argues, and makes music, with a local character shaped equally by mountains and sea. Come in October, when the summer crowds have gone, the sea is still warm enough to swim and the forest paths are smelling of cedar and rain.
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